As fashion month comes to an end, it’s time to take a look at the highs and the lows. Here are a few collections that worked and a few that did not.
Until now, Kiko Kostadinov has primarily focused on menswear. But as the label grew, Kostadinov handed the responsibilities for womenswear over to twin sisters Deanna and Laura Fanning. This collection is highly successful for the two recent graduates of Central Saint Martins. The mixture of warm browns and taupes with bright fun colors lets the collection achieve a youthful look. The rounded shoulders and cinched waists make the clothing interesting to look at. Looking forward to seeing more from the Fanning twins at Kostadinov, they are definitely designers to watch.
What works overall about Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s latest collection with Chloé is that it really takes us somewhere and has a clear theme. This time around, Ramsay-Levi wanted to take us on vacation to the beach. With a warm, earthy color palette, boho accessories and relaxed styling, this collection stays clear in its vision. When one looks at this collection, it’s easy to tell that it’s from Chloé without anyone having to say anything. Year after year Chloé puts out collections that are frequently picked up by “it girls” and this collection won’t be any different.
The debut of a new creative director always leads to a lot of hype before their first collection. Not only was Riccardo Tisci debuting his first collection with Burberry, but he also had the responsibility of bridging the long-established gap between Burberry and today’s youth. The collection was enormous, featuring a whopping 133 looks. But quality over quantity held true for this show. A lot of the pieces that were meant to be “youthful” just looked like throwaways from Simon’s Calvin Klein. It was a bold debut and it will be interesting to see the next collection when less hype surrounds it but overall, it didn’t work.
Another debut of a new creative director, but not so much another disappointment. More like a misstep for the newly dubbed “Celine” (previously Céline before Hedi Slimane recently removed the accent). This collection featured interesting silhouettes and slim cut suits with a dark, edgy theme. But there is almost no way of distinguishing this collection between what’s happening at YSL now and during Slimane’s time there. There is nothing inherently bad about this collection but there’s also nothing new being brought to the table. And for that reason, it didn’t work.
What were some of your favorite/least favorite collections of this season? Do you agree with my opinions of these collections? Let me know in the comments!
Header images via VOGUE